Sunday, June 22, 2008

TAPALPA & EL SALTO del NOGAL

For a wholly different "Mexico", we drove approximately 1.5 hours south of from our rental home in Jocotepec to the town of Tapalpa, built on the slopes of the Sierra Talpalpa mountains at an elevation of 2060 mts./6780 ft. above sea level. The central area of the town is architecturally designed as a little Alpine Village, and the town is surrounded by Pine Forests. We stayed overnight at a cute little Hotel "Maty" right off the central square, where all the rooms include their own working wood-burning fireplace, and the feel is really like being in the Alps.

Upon our arrival, after walking around the central town, we found a small cafe "Fonda", which served one of local speciality dishes -- a so-called Tamale that was actually made out of Chard (rather than the usual corn meal), and then topped with some cream and a wonderful verde sauce. Unique and delicious (and healthy to boot!).

After our mid-day lunch, we headed out of town a short distance (approx. 5km) to see a local favorite attraction called Las Piedrotas or "the big Rocks". These giant rock formations sprout up like 'mushrooms' in the middle of nowhere providing for an interesting landscape. We noticed that there were two sets of cables strung between two sets of the large rocks, and were told these were "Zip Lines". Unfortunately, we didn't get to try it as they are only in use on weekends and we came mid-week.

The next morning after a wonderful overnight stay, we headed out to the premier local attraction: El Salto del Nogal. This is the highest Waterfall in our State of Jalisco, cascading a spectacular 344ft in two stages into a pool at the bottom of the gorge. It really was an adventure just to get there. First, you had to drive on dirt/gravel roads through the countryside for about 45mins. from the main highway outside town, with little signage to guide you. We just kept asking directions to make sure we were going in right direction. Eventually, with lots of luck and assistance if you get to the right spot at the end of the road, there is basically nothing there but a dirt turn-around and some cleared space to allow for some parking. When we got there, there was no other vehicles or anybody in site. Guide books said there used to be a restaurant (probably a tent) at the top where you park, but no longer -- nothing. After parking, you then must hike the rest of the way on foot. You can hear the falls, but you can't see them at all from there. The Hike is approximately 2miles, down into the gorge. Only when you get to the very bottom, can you see the Falls -- first the bottom part, and then a little further you are able to see the top portion and get to the pool at the bottom. Although the hiking trail is nicely laid out in flat stones (like a cobblestone street), it is still not for the faint of heart or those not in good physical condition. While hiking down is exercise enough, remember when you're down viewing the waterfall (and picknicking or whatever), then you have to climb back up (and, its a LONG way up - to the top of the canyon is about 2000 feet up!). But, along the way there are also caves to see, called the "monasterios", where they say the Cristero Guerilla fighters once hid out. But, as you should see from the pictures, the hike was well worthwhile. The Waterfall and views were truly spectacular; and, best of all we had it all to ourselves for close to half and hour, before a group of 4 teens came along behind us.


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